Jan 19, 2026
Are you hesitant about planning a vacation because of your dog? Are you stopped by images of your cherished family companion baying mournfully in a boarding kennel run by well-meaning strangers?
Consider another possibility: your dog, safe and snug at home, cared for by someone who’s qualified and experienced.
Consider a pet sitter.
Pet sitters are paid professionals who come to your home and spend quality time with your pet. The best ones are those who not only feed and play with them, but hold certificates in First Aid and CPR.
Consider the benefits.
Your dog remains at home, with the same diet and daily routine, and receives both attention and exercise while you’re away.
You can feel more secure knowing that, not only is your dog safe, but your home is too. Pet sitters can take in your newspapers and mail, water your plants and provide your place with that lived-in look.
To start, ask your vet for recommendations. Ask your family, friends and neighbors for the names of their own pet sitter if they have one. If not, research pet sitters in your area.
Interview each candidate over the phone, then in person, and ask the following questions: Can they provide written proof that they’re bonded and carry commercial liability insurance? What formal training have they received? Are contingency plans in place if an accident or emergency prevents them from fulfilling their duties? Will they provide extra services like grooming, dog walking or playtime with other dogs? If they provide live-in services, what are the specific times they agree to be with your dog? Will they give you a written contract listing their services and fees? Will they provide you with the phone numbers of clients who have agreed to be references?
If you’re satisfied with the person’s answers and if the references have checked out, it’s imperative that your dog first meet and interact with prospective sitter. Monitor them closely. Does your dog seem comfortable with the person? Are they a good fit? Are there any issues that need addressing?
Once your decision has been made and you, yourself, are comfortable, you can begin to plan that long-delayed vacation: whether for a weekend, a week or longer. Then, before your date of departure: Walk the sitter through your home, pointing out all the essentials needed to make the agreed-upon routine run smoothly and well. Give a trust worthy neighbor copies of your keys and have that neighbor and the pet sitter exchange phone numbers. Show the pet sitter any important safety features, such as fuse boxes, circuit breakers and security systems.
Prepare a comprehensive list of emergency contact information, including how to reach you, your vet, and the closest emergency clinic. Store all of your dog’s food and water bowls, treats, toys, and other supplies in one place, along with extra food in case you’re away longer than expected. Tape a list of feeding instructions and a photo of your dog (should your pet pull a “Houdini” and escape) to the door of your refrigerator.
With everything firmly in place, all you have to do now is leave. Secure in the knowledge that your precious dog is in good hands and is, after all, a mere phone call away.
Jan 12, 2026
Before the chill in the air turns into the cold of winter, make certain that both you and your dog are fully prepared to stay safe and warm.
For pet parents living in houses, it’s advisable to have the furnace checked for signs of carbon monoxide leakage before turning it on for the first time. If dogs spend more time at home than you during the winter months, they will, naturally, be more vulnerable to carbon monoxide poisoning. As a precaution, arrange a pre-winter examination with your vet to determine if there are any medical problems that may make your dog more susceptible to the cold.
A reminder: never shave a long-coated dog in winter.
Keep your dog indoors, preferably in a warm “go to” place away from drafts. To ensure their skin and coat are protected against the drier air – inside and out — brush them more often than usual. Pay special attention to both elderly and arthritic dogs, as their joints may stiffen in the cold, making their movements more awkward and painful.
If you have a wood-burning fireplace and light a fire, ensure that your dog is a safe distance from the heat, flames and flying embers. This reduces the risk of singed fur, hair, paws and tails. The same applies to space heaters, except that, in this case, a dog can knock over the heater itself, possibly causing a fire.
Weather permitting, the happiest, healthiest dogs are those being walked and exercised on a regular basis. But before going outside, dress your dog — particularly seniors and smaller breeds – in a heavy sweater or coat. The colder the temperature, the greater the protection (this applies to most dogs) including waterproof, padded parkas with hoods and dog booties.
Always keep your dog on-leash, whether you’re on a city street or in the country near a frozen pond or lake. There’s nothing more dangerous or frightening than a dog running loose in the snow, possibly losing all sense of direction, or falling through the ice into the water.
When it’s cold and snowy, many dogs will resist pottying outside. Ensure that they’re warmly, but comfortably dressed, and stand close to them, perhaps with an opened umbrella to shield them and keep them dry.
Dogs lose most of their body heat from the pads of their feet, their ears, and their respiratory tract. Monitor them closely for any signs of discomfort. If they begin to shiver or whine, appear anxious, slow down or stop moving altogether, it’s time to go back inside. Be on guard as well for two more serious conditions: frostbite and hypothermia.
Once indoors, dry your dog thoroughly, paying special attention to their paws and the pads of their feet. Licking at any salt and antifreeze coating their pads can make them sick, while the combination of ice and salt can cause their pads to crack and bleed.
Never leave your dog alone in a car for any length of time on a cold day. Cars are like giant refrigerators on wheels. The only safe place for your dog on a cold day is a warm home.
Dogs should never be kept outside during the winter. But if they must be left outdoors for a limited amount of time, they must have a warm, well-insulated shelter (straw traps heat best) to protect them from the wind and cold. And take care to keep their water bowl – plastic, not metal – filled with fresh, not frozen, water.
After checking this list, not once, but twice, you’ll be more than ready to let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.
Jan 5, 2026
Imagine handing out treats and name tags at the front door of your home for your new dog and your resident pets. Imagine happy munches and friendly woofs (and/or meows) as they blend and bond instantly and forever.
Then blink twice and remember that you are living in the world of reality and not in an ideal parallel universe. But armed with a set of realistic expectations, your reality may ultimately be just as ideal.
Introducing your new dog to the pets already in your home is a process. To succeed, you must start with a plan and a promise – to yourself — to be patient. The process can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks (and in extreme cases, a few months).
To improve your chances of a happy blending of old and new, choose a dog as close as possible in temperament and activity level to the pets you already have. Dogs and cats are creatures of habit, and most dislike any disruptions in their daily lives and routines.
Some dogs are naturally more relaxed and more social than others. Some are more territorial and don’t enjoy sharing at all. Unhappy with the arrival of a newcomer, they may demonstrate their disapproval by fighting with the perceived “intruder” or by marking.
Allow your new dog to adjust to you and to his new surroundings by keeping him in a separate room with his bed, food, water and toys for several days. Spend as much quality, comforting time with your new arrival as possible.
Maintain your other pets’ regular routines – from feeding and pottying to exercising, playing and together times – to reassure them that nothing has changed.
Since smells are of utmost importance to animals, get them used to each other’s scent as soon as possible. One way is through that most reliable standby: food. Feed your resident pets and your new dog on either side of the door to his room, encouraging them to associate something pleasurable with one another’s smell.
Once this has been successfully accomplished, walk your new dog slowly through your home, room by room, allowing him to become familiar with its sights, sounds and smells. Keep your other pets behind the closed door of his room to allow your new dog a sense of safety and privacy, while promoting a further exchange of scents between them. Repeat this several times a day for a few days.
Next, use two doorstoppers to keep the door to your new dog’s room propped open just enough for all of the animals to see each other. Repeat this several times a day for a few days. BUT remember! Every time you leave your home, leave your new dog in his room with the door closed.
Hopefully, when you’re ready to make the “formal” introductions, your patience and your animals’ pre-preparations will have paid off. And they will not only recognize, but also start to accept one another by what they see and smell.
Armed with the tastiest treats and most tempting toys, you can expect sniffing, approaching and walking away. Reward good behavior with praise and treats, but discourage bad behavior by promptly separating the offending parties and gently, but firmly correcting them.
Once again, patience is key. This too is a process, which may take time until the blending is successful, and your family is calmly and contentedly one.
If, however, certain problems persist, speak to your vet or consult a recommended animal behaviorist.
Dec 29, 2025
Infectious tracheobronchitis, commonly known as kennel cough, is a canine respiratory infection caused by Bordetella bronchiseptica and canine parainfluenza virus. These pathogens attack the cilia lining the respiratory tract and cause inflammation of the upper airway. This leads to irritation of the airways and a dry cough. It also makes the animal more susceptible to a secondary infection. Although kennel cough is more common during summer, it can occur anytime.
Kennel cough is VERY contagious. It is named kennel cough because it can quickly spread through a kennel and infect every dog. Kennel cough can be transmitted by aerosols released when a sick animal coughs, by direct contact with an infected animal, or by the sharing of contaminated objects. Kennel cough spreads rapidly when dogs are kept in close quarters (such as boarding facilities and animal shelters), but it can also spread if a dog greets an infected dog during a walk or drinks from a contaminated water bowl at the dog park.
Any dog can get kennel cough, but puppies and unvaccinated dogs are at a greater risk. Kennel cough causes a persistent, nonproductive cough that may sound as if something is caught in your pet’s throat and they are gagging or trying to clear their throat. Others describe it as a deep honking cough. Symptoms usually develop three to ten days after exposure to an infected animal. Animals with kennel cough will otherwise act and eat normally. Exercise or getting excited can make symptoms worse.
If you think your dog has kennel cough, see your veterinarian as soon as possible. Because there’s no specific test for kennel cough, it’s a diagnosis of exclusion. Your veterinarian will examine your dog to exclude other causes of a nonproductive cough, such as heart disease, fungal and parasitic infections like heartworm disease, a collapsing trachea, and cancer. Dogs with kennel cough usually have a history of exposure, i.e. newly acquired pets from a shelter, pet store, or breeder, or pets that have recently been boarded, to a groomer, recent boarding, training classes, dog shows, or outings to dog parks. Based on the examination and history, your veterinarian will determine whether they suspect kennel cough.
Treatment depends on the severity of symptoms. In very mild cases, no medications are given since the disease is self-limiting and will run its course, much like a human cold. Humidifiers and using a harness instead of a collar (to avoid irritating the neck) can also help. More serious cases are treated with oral antibiotics and often cough suppressants. Most cases resolve within 7-14 days. If symptoms don’t improve, pets should be re-examined and further work-up may be necessary. Kennel cough can occasionally progress to pneumonia so it is important to monitor your pet and notify your veterinarian if he or she isn’t improving. Puppies with an immature immune system and older dogs with a weaker immune systems are at greater risk for developing pneumonia from kennel cough. If your dog becomes listless, lethargic, stops eating, has trouble breathing, develops excessive green nasal discharge or a productive cough, see your veterinarian immediately. Finally, if you suspect your dog has kennel cough, isolate them from other dogs to avoid spreading it.
There are three types of vaccines available against kennel cough: an injectable, intranasal, and newer oral form. Although these vaccines don’t provide 100% protection, they provide some protection against kennel cough and decrease the severity of symptoms. Speak with your veterinarian to learn more about kennel cough and the best way to protect your dog from it.
Dec 22, 2025
Even adult dogs can suffer from separation anxiety.
The trigger: they become agitated when they’re separated from their owners. Some are stressed before their owners leave and some may try to keep them from leaving. Within minutes of their owners’ departure, they’ll begin barking and many will resort to destructive behaviors. Then, when their owners return, they overreact – behaving as though they’ve been separated for years.
Typical behaviors: excessive drooling, panting and/or salivating, excessive whining, howling and/or barking, having indoor “accidents” despite being house trained, pacing in an obsessive pattern, chewing things up, digging holes, scratching at the windows and doors, and trying to escape.
If this sounds achingly familiar, speak to your vet and arrange for your cherished canine companion to be thoroughly examined in order to rule out any medical concerns. For example: dogs may have “accidents” unrelated to separation anxiety. The cause may be an infection, hormone problems, certain medications or other conditions. It could also be the result of incomplete house training.
Should your dog receive a clean bill of health, then the problem is most assuredly behavioral. If his separation anxiety is mild, address it as if he were a puppy and begin at the beginning, paw step by paw step, to build up his self-confidence. Provide him with a “special treat” such as a puzzle toy or a Kong stuffed with peanut butter whenever you leave and remove it as soon as you arrive back home.
Ensure that each departure and return is as casual and relaxed as possible – no exaggerated “goodbyes” or “hellos” – and pay no attention to your dog – however he behaves – for the first few minutes after you get home. Leave him with one of your articles of clothing that bear your scent to reduce his stress and make him feel more comfortable on his own. Consider giving him over-the-counter natural calming supplements.
If, however, the problem is more serious, you will have to slowly, patiently and gently, accustom him to feeling safe and secure in your absence. Should your dog appear nervous when he sees signs that you’re preparing to leave, such as putting on your shoes or picking up your keys, do it but don’t leave. Put on your shoes and then sit down on the couch or a chair. Pick up your keys and turn on the TV. Repeat this over and over again throughout the day.
Once your dog appears more relaxed around these two actions, slowly distance yourself from him. Begin by going to the front door, instructing your dog to “stay” and then close the door behind you. Wait a few seconds, open the door and come back inside. Gradually increase the amount of time you’re gone. Put on your shoes and pick up your keys. Ask your dog to “stay” and simply go into another room.
As he gets used to the “stay” game, increase the amount of time you’re gone. When you’ve built up to spending 10 or more seconds apart, keeping your departures and returns calm, reward him with a tasty stuffed treat and plenty of loving pets. Then, slowly increase the time you’re apart from seconds to minutes, appropriately rewarding him each time, until you’re able to stay away for longer and longer periods.
Most importantly, make certain to exercise your dog as much as possible every day. Not only is a tired dog a contented dog but he’s less likely to feel anxious when you leave. Coupled with physical activity is mental stimulation – essential to challenging his mind and keeping him satisfied. Engage him through the use of interactive puzzles and toys, play games of tug-o-war and fetch, and hope that by happily wearing him out, he’ll barely notice the next time you leave.
But if these suggestions don’t help, either speak with your vet again or engage the services of a certified animal behaviorist.
Dec 15, 2025
Their bodies may be imperfect, but their spirit remains intact.
So it is said about the special needs dog. Although caring for one can be challenging, more and more people are opening their hearts and their homes and adopting them. For this reason, more and more dogs who might otherwise be euthanized are being given a new “leash” on life.
Experts stress the importance of not viewing special needs dogs as “handicapped.” Although they have certain limitations (including partial paralysis, three leggedness, blindness or deafness), they’re not “aware” of them, and can be as active and affectionate as any other dog.
Adopters of special needs dogs insist the rewards outweigh the work. Many use social media to share their experiences, to interact with owners like them, and to encourage others to adopt. They don’t see these dogs’ medical or physical problems as a shortcoming, and don’t believe it makes them any less of a dog.
Those interested in adopting a special needs dog should first fully inform themselves about that dog’s condition, limitations, and maintenance. This includes meeting with their vet, requesting a tutorial on administering medications, and asking if they will make house calls. If not, they should ask to be referred to someone who will.
The quality of life for special needs dogs has been greatly enhanced by the growing number of products available to their owners. There are pet diapers, no-slip boots, orthotic braces, prosthetics, and front, back, combination and amputee harnesses. Ramps, pet steps, pet stairs and pet carts. Adjustable pet wheelchairs that can accommodate dogs weighing up to 180 pounds. And because partially paralyzed pets frequently get carpet burns when out of their chairs, there are washable, heavy-duty “drag bags” to protect their back ends.
Sadly, dogs who are blind or deaf have been characterized as aggressive, unpredictable, untrainable, prone to other health issues, and even a shorter life span. Studies, however, have proven otherwise. They have shown that despite their obvious deficiencies, these dogs are generally quite healthy and capable of living long, otherwise normal lives. And that, whether blind or deaf, they are no more aggressive, unpredictable or untrainable than sighted or hearing dogs.
Blind dogs are trained through the use of both sound and scent cues. By relying on their highly developed sense of smell, their noses let them know where and what things are, and when combined with their owners’ reassuring voice and touch, helps them live as normally and comfortably as possible.
They quickly learn and “map out” their surroundings, and for added protection, have their own “go to” places, created by putting their food and water bowls, doggy bed, kennel, and several favorite toys (squeaky toys or ones with bells inside are best) on distinctive mats, and never moved. A carpeted runner or large area rug provides them with safe play area because the traction is good and the edges clearly discernible.
Sharp edges on furniture can be padded with bubble-wrap or foam pipe insulation to help prevent injury. Any stairways should be baby-gated, and a textured mat laid before each one to alert the dogs to the gates’ proximity. And all outside activities, from pottying to playing, should be done either in a securely fenced yard or securely on leash.
Deaf or hard-of-hearing dogs are trained through the use of sign language or hand signals with treats as reinforcement. Vibrations are also used, such as walking with a “heavy foot” if their attention is elsewhere, and stomping close to their beds or near their heads to waken them rather than touching and startling them. Lights can also be used as a teaching tool to get their attention, but, of course, this works best as night.
Since they bond instantly with their owners, placing their trust and safekeeping in their hands, deaf dogs always look to them for guidance and follow where their owners leads As with blind dogs, all outside activities, from pottying to playing, should be done either in a securely fenced yard or securely on leash.
Because there is nothing inherently “wrong” with them, deaf dogs can do almost anything hearing dogs do. Many of them excel at agility and obedience, and make excellent therapy dogs.
As the owners of special needs dogs readily agree, their own lives have been irrevocably changed. By the sweetness and determination of the animals they adopted. By the smiles they elicit and the kisses they distribute. And most importantly, by the inspiration these dogs provide, not only for them but for everyone around them.
